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Akita Excerpt's

OFFICIAL AKC STANDARD FOR THE AKITA

General Appearance: Large, powerful, alert, with much substance and heavy bone. The broad head, forming a blunt triangle, with deep muzzle, small eyes and erect ears carried forward in line with back of neck, is characteristic of the breed. The large, curled tail, balancing the broad head is also characteristic of the breed.
Head: Massive but in balance with body, free of wrinkle when at ease. Skull flat between ears and broad; jaws square and powerful with minimal dewlap. Head forms a flunt triangle when viewed from above.
Fault - Narrow or snippy head.
Muzzle: Broad and full. Distance from nose to stop is to distance from stop to Occiput as 2 is to 3.
Stop: Well defined, but not too abrupt. A snallow furrow extends well up forehead.
Nose: Broad and black. Liver permitted on white Akitas, but black always preferred.
Disqualification – Butterfly nose or total lack of pigmentation on nose.
Ears: The ears of the Akita are characteristic of the breed. They are strongly erect and small in relation to the rest of the head. If ear is folded forward for measuring length, tip will touch upper eye rim. Ears are triangular, slightly rounded at tip; wide at base, set wide on head but not too low, and carried slightly forward over eyes in line with back of neck.
Disqualification – Drop or broken ears.
Eyes: Dark brown, small, deep set and triangular in shape. Eye rims black and tight.
Lips and Tongue: Lips black and not pendulous; tongue pink.
Teeth: Strong with scissors bite preferred but level bite acceptable.
Disqualification – Noticeably undershot or overshot.
Neck: Thick and muscular; comparatively short, widening gradually toward shoulders. A pronounced crest blends in with base of skull.
Body: Longer than high, as 10 is to 9 in males; 11 to 9 in bitches. Chest wide and deep; depth of chest is one-half of height of dog at shoulder. Ribs well sprung, brisket well developed. Level back with firmly muscled loin and moderate tuck up. Skin pliant but not loose.
Serious Faults – Light bone, rangy body.
Tail: Large and full, set high and carried over back or against flank in a three-quarter, full or double curl, always dipping to or below level of back. On a three-quarter curl, tip drops well down flank. Root large and strong. Tail bone reaches hock when let down. Hair coarse, straight and full, with no appearance of plume.
Disqualification – Sickle or uncurled tail.
Forequarters: Shoulders strong and powerful with moderate layback. Forelegs heavy-boned and straight as viewed from front. Angle of pastern 15 degrees forward from vertical.
Faults – Elbows in our out, loose shoulders.
Hindquarters: Width, muscular development and comparable to forequarters. Upper thighs well developed. Stifle moderately bent and hocks well let down, turning neither in nor out.
Dewclaws: On front legs generally not removed, dewclaws on high legs generally removed.
Feet: Cat feet, well knuckled up with thick pads. Feet straight ahead.
Coat: Double coated. Undercoat thick, soft, dense and shorter than outer coat. Outer coat straight, harsh and standing somewhat off body. Hair on head, legs and ears short. Length of hair at withers and rump approximately two inches, which is slightly longer than on the rest of boldy, except tail, where coat is longest and most profuse.
Faults – Any indication of ruff or feathering.
Color: Any color including white; brindle; or pinto. Colors are brilliant and clear and markings are well balance, with or without mask or blaze. White Akitas have no mask. Pinto has a white background with large, evenly placed patches covering head and more than one-third of body. Undercoat may be a different color from outer coat.
Gait: Brisk and powerful with strides of moderate length. Back remains strong, firm and level. Rear legs move in line with front legs.
Size – Males: 26 to 28 inches at the withers.
Size – Bitches: 24 to 26 inches at the withers.
Disqualification – Dogs under 25 inches; bitches under 23 inches.
Temperament: Alert and responsive, dignified and courageous. Aggressive toward other dogs.
Disqualifications:
Butterfly nose or total lack of pigmentation on nose.
Drop or broken ears.
Noticeably undershot or overshot teeth.
Sickle or uncurled tail.
Dogs under 25 inches; bitches under 23 inches

Know The Facts BEFORE Breeding Your Dog

It is extremely important to learn the facts and possible consequences if you are contemplating breeding your dog (male or female). In today’s overcrowded world, we, as the wardens of our domestic pets, must make responsible decisions for them and for ourselves. The following points should be reviewed carefully.

QUALITY: AKC registration is NOT an indication of quality. Most dogs, even purebred, should not be bred. Many dogs, though wonderful pets, have defects of structure, personality or health that should not be perpetuated. Breeding animals should be proven free of these defects BEFORE starting on a reproductive career. Breeding should only be done with the goal of IMPROVEMENT - an honest attempt to create puppies better than their parents. Ignorance is no excuse - once you have created a life, you can’t take it back, even if blind, crippled or a canine psychopath!!

COST: Dog breeding is NOT a money-making proposition, if done correctly. Health care and shots, diagnosis of problems and proof of quality, extra food, facilities, stud fees, advertising, etc. are all costly and must be paid BEFORE the pups can be sold. An unexpected Caesarean or emergency intensive care of a sick pup will make a break-even litter become a big liability. And this is IF you can sell the pups.

SALES: First-time breeders have no reputation and no referrals to help them find buyers. Previous promises of “I want a dog just like yours” evaporate when puppies arrive. Consider the time and expense of caring for pups that may not sell until four months, eight months or more! What WOULD you do if your pups did not sell? Send them to the pound? Dump them in the country? Sell them cheap to a dog broker who may resell them to labs or other unsavory buyers? Veteran breeders with a good reputation often don’t consider a breeding unless they have cash deposits in advance for an average-sized litter.

JOY OF BIRTH: If you’re doing it for the children’s education, remember the whelping may be at 3 am or at the vet’s on the surgery table. Even if the kiddies are present, they may get a chance to see the birth of a monster or a mummy, or watch the bitch scream and bite you as you attempt to deliver a pup that is half out and too large. Some bitches are not natural mothers and either ignore or savage their pups. Bitches can have severe delivery problems or even die in whelp - pups can be born dead or with gross deformities that require euthanasia. There can be joy, but if you can’t deal with the possibility of tragedy, don’t start.

TIME: Veteran breeders of quality dogs state they spend well over 130 hours of labor in raising an average litter. That is over 2 hours per day, every day! The bitch CANNOT be left alone while whelping and only for short periods for the first few days after. Be prepared for days off work and sleepless nights. Even after delivery, mom needs care, feeding, puppies need daily checking, weighing and socialization. Later, grooming and training, and the whelping box needs lots of cleaning. More hours are spent doing paperwork, pedigrees and interviewing buyers. If you have any abnormal conditions, such as sick puppies or a bitch who can’t or won’t care for her babies, count on double the time. If you can’t provide the time, you will either have dead pups or poor ones that are bad tempered, antisocial, dirty and/or sickly - hardly a buyer’s delight.

HUMANE RESPONSIBILITIES: It’s midnight - do you know where you puppies are? There are over THREE AND A HALF MILLION unwanted dogs put to death in pounds inthis country each year, with millions more dying homelss and unwanted through starvation, disease, automobiles, abuse, etc. Nearly a quarter of the victims of this unspeakable tragedy are purebred dogs “with papers”. The breeder who creates a life is responsible for that life. Will you carefully screen potential buyers? Or will you just take the money and not worry if the puppy is chained in a junkyard all of its life or runs in the street to be killed? Will you turndown a sale to irresponsible owners? Or will you say “yes” and not think about the puppy you held and loved now having a litter of mongrels every time she comes in heat, which fills the pounds with more statistics - your grand-pups? Would you be prepared to take a grown adult if the owners can no longer care for it? Or can you life with the thought that the baby you helped bring into the world will be destroyed at the pound?

TENDER IN HEART AND STRONG IN STRENGTH

This is how the Japanese describe their National Treasure, the Akita Inu. The Akita is a liberal combination of gentleness, dignity, courage and constant alertness. He is affectionate, sensitive, curious, and usually tolerant and patient with well behaved children. He is very clean and an excellent indoor dog. But note: he is also aloof with strangers and can be aggressive toward animals that do not belong in his family group.

Above average in intelligence, the Akita is quick to learn and has an excellent memory. Self-willed, with a proud ego, the Akita needs firm handling coupled with patience, perserverance, praise and justified corrections. NOTE: He cannot be bullied into sub-missiveness and resents forceful training methods, physical abuse or constant nagging.

REMEMBER, the Akita thrives on human companionship. The Akita is a large, heavy boned, sturdily built dog, with a broad head, forming a blunt triangel, small eyes and erect ears carried forward and a curled tail carried proudly over the back. Adult males are at least 25 inches at the shoulders and 100 to 140 lbs.; females are a minimum of 23 inches and weigh 70 to 100 lbs. The coat is thick and dense and they shed twice a year. The outer coat is harsh, but not wiry and the undercoat is soft and dense. Akitas come in all colors including pure white, black, red, silver-gray, brindle and pinto. Please refer to the AKC Akita Standard in this packet. To describe the Akita in one word, “dignity” comes to mind. They are typically reserved in manner, loyal and affectionate with family and friends, but cool with strangers and fierce with intruders, announcing visitors with a bark. Two adult males or two adult females should NOT be kept together. A fenced yard is a MUST and Akitas should NEVER be permitted to roam at will. They should be UNDER CONTROL at all times whether on or off lead.

In addition to being an excellent family companion and guard dog, the Akita has functioned well in backpacking, carting, sledding, weight pulling and hunting. They are also seen competing very successfully in the AKC obedience ring. Females of the breed are more easily controlled, usually smaller than the males and therefore recommended for the first time Akita owner.

It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that your new Akita puppy be enrolled in a puppy OBEDIENCE TRAINING COURSE by about 4 months of age. Socialization of puppy is of utmost importance for a stable, reliable adult. The Akita is basically sound and may live an average of 10 to 12 years. Conscientious breeders have their dogs x-rayed for hip dysplasia and eyes checked for eye disorders (such as progressive retinal atrophy, PRA). Ask the person you purchase your puppy from, if they are members of a local Akita Club or the ACA. (parent club).

IS AN AKITA THE RIGHT DOG FOR YOU?

Before you buy an Akita puppy, THINK: What do I want my dog to be like? How will this dog fit into my lifestyle? What is my living situation? Consider what your needs are and what the dog’s needs will be. Do they conflict? Think of the dogs you’ve enjoyed owning in the past. Were they easy-going or intense; self-willed or dependent; out-going or reserved; placid or energetic? Then ask yourself if you have the TIME needed to devote to socializing, training and loving your dog.
The Akita is an extremely intelligent, large, energetic, and strongly territorial dog whose life is oriented toward his owners. If he is the right dog for you, he is one of the most rewarding breeds to own, but this is also a demanding breed, and should not be casually added to the household on a whim.
Will you enjoy owning an Akita? If you are looking for a bright, sensitive, responsive dog with whom you will be able to spend time, will be able to train and will be protective and loyal and devoted to you and your family for the rest of his life, then perhaps you would enjoy owning an Akita.
The Akita can be a guard dog. He feels that one of his jobs is to protect his family. You don’t need to train him to do this; it comes naturally to him. He will be watchful of people on your property, expressing suspicion with a low rumble; Akitas are not barkers. They quickly learn to differentiate between strangers and friends. Akitas are not tolerant of other dogs especially those of the same sex. Under no circumstances should an Akita be allowed to roam through the neighborhood.
The Akita, although a large dog, does not require huge amounts of exercise. Like any dog, an Akita will thrive on a moderate amount of exercise and enjoys playing energetically. You will be happier and so will your dog if you choose a breed that fits into your present lifestyle. Don’t expect to change your way of life once you’ve acquired a dog.
Akitas do not shed on a continual basis; however, they do “blow their coats” about twice a year. As the new coat is beginning to grow into place, large tufts of hair will loosen. The coat can be stripped by using a wire slicker brush. The dogs seem to enjoy this extra attention and if done on a regular basis as the coat is shedding, the new coat will usually come in quicker.
The Akita is a working dog. The Working Dog Group includes some of the most intelligent breeds of dogs. You’ll be amazed at how quickly he learns, and at the number of things you can teach him. But this great intelligence carries an obligation with it. An Akita won’t be happy if left alone in a pen or in the house all day. A working dog enjoys life most when he is given responsibility and a job to do, whether the job is obedience, babysitting, back-packing, or hunting. The Akita demands your attention and thrives on it when trained and worked with regularly.
DON’T BUY AN AKITA because of pictures you’ve seen, stories you’ve read or because they are the “IN THING”… MEET THE DOGS. Watch them at shows and visit them at home. There is a big difference between a cute 7 week old ball of fur and a full grown adult. If after all of that, you still want an Akita, then welcome to a most pleasurable experience. ACA, INC. – 1982

CHECKLIST FOR THE PUPPY BUYER

1. Be sure the pups come from American Kennel Club (A.K.C.) registered parents. Both parents must be A.K.C. registered or the litter cannot be registered.
2. Ask for proof that both the sire and dam have been x-rayed for hip dysplasia. Make sure the sire and dame x-ray normal. It’s one thing to say, “Oh yes, they’ve both been x-rayed”. Let’s see if they’ve both been x-rayed normal.
3. Be sure the pups have been wormed for ascarids, and have been given the necessary vaccinations (Parvo, Distemper, Lepto, Hepatitis, etc., according to age).
4. Be sure the breeder provides you with a health record and directions for feeding the pup. Information on supplements and how often to feed are quite important.
5. Read the A.K.C. Standard for the Akita breed so that you will know something about the requirements for the breed. There are size limitations for instance. A puppy from parents barely making the breed standard in height will not likely grow comfortably to the 25” height required for Akita males, or the 23” height required for Akita females.
6. Observe the parents. Is the dam friendly? If she panics and hides under a table, how many of the pups will take after her? If you want a personable, outgoing puppy you had better buy one produced by a personable, outgoing dam. Same goes for the sire of the litter.
7. If you are buying a male, be sure the testicles are dropped into the scrotum. If a testicle is retained and the seller still wants you to take the pup, make sure the seller puts it in writing that he guarantees the other testicle to drop within a reasonable period. Most testicles are down and stable by the time the pups are six weeks old. If you are still waiting for one to drop at four months, you have a problem. If the testicle does drop that late, the dog is NOT a good bet for breeding. Your veterinarian will explain.
8. Akitas can have various problems. Learn to recognize them. Long silky hair, flopped ears (in a pup 8 months or older), entropion (your Vet. will explain this to you). Be cautious of buying a pup with really runny eyes. Hernias require surgery. A true hernia gives the pup a large bulge in the abdominal area.
9. The tail must curl. The lips, eye rims, and nose should be black. The pup should look well fed, but if the belly is too distended it might be full of worms rather than food. The pup should show no signs of limping and should be able to use its legs easily in a trotting gait.
10. The pup should have a jolly attitude. He should look well fed and cared for. He should be easy and comfortable in the company of his litter mates and breeder. Take the time to observe the pups. Watch how they play. Remember. . . Akitas live to be about 12-15 years of age. That’s a long time to live with a dog. How nice if you and the dog are good companions. How dreadful if you and the dog don’t like each other after a couple of months. People that buy and get rid of pups every few months are missing the fun of a good relationship with a dog. a relationship that requires time to make it mellow. ACA, Inc.